Ahhh, the pretty country of the Metcalf Gap area-rolling green hills, serene pastures, and
groves of oak and other broad leafed trees make for a terrific
drive. When approaching Metcalf Gap from the east, the early Highway
80 traveler had a choice to make-both of which lead to (in my opinion),
great roadie driving experiences through fine scenery. South towards
Ranger, or NW towards Brad & Caddo? From 1932-1943, if the early traveler elected
to veer northwestward at this juncture, they would have been traveling
what was known at that time as Alternate 80. This route took one
from Metcalf Gap northwestward through Brad, then generally
westward past Caddo on the way to Breckenridge and Albany before dropping
down the long angular descent into the heart of Abilene. Today, this is still a terrific drive, one of
my favorite stretches I've covered in Texas so far. Though the
road is now known as U.S. 180, in many places, time has almost stood
still. Most of the towns still have that certain 'feel' to them that
conjures up memories of going to grandmother's and you almost expect to
find a
5&10 cent store still open and selling fountain drinks.
Not to be outdone, out in the county past the city lines, ample evidence
of the early roads still tempt one to stop, linger, and savor what once
was. Let me show you what I mean...

You don't have to go far before old 80
makes its presence known! Just west of Metcalf Gap, Little Ioni
Creek wanders this a way
and
that, and old 80 wove its way through here like a snake. Just shy of
a mile, be sure to check out the remains of a long, very pretty old
concrete bridge done in that concrete rail wooden timber mimicking style so prevalent in
Texas in the 30's (known professionally to TX DOT engineers as rail style
'Standard Type D' - Thanks to John Murphy at the OST
website for that tidbit!). Though now on a private road, a view from
the gate still rewards one with a terrific view down a green tunnel.
Just beyond this stretch, look to the right for other small bypassed
bridges and the old roadway playing tag with the new. Again, as you climb the hill curving right, look to the right just before
the rock cut for an old 80 peek-a-boo...another bypassed bridge. It's
apparent that old 80 went around the crest of the hill here instead of
blasting through. You can see where it rejoins at the top, angling
in from the right.
Brad today is just a sleepy little spot in the
road, so continue past
the closed service station on
the
south side of the road. Just where the road starts to curve back to
the SW, watch for a stretch of vintage old 80 coming at you from the
United Methodist Church property. Remember this road, you will
see it again. Old 80 banked around to the north
side
of these hills, then headed SW to cross modern 180 and then paralled the
existing road for quite a spell west of Brad. Photo ops
abound. For example, this 1st shot is where old 80 came around the
hill after heading westward past the United Methodist Church area we saw
earlier. The second shot is just another 1/2 mile or so on the south
side of the road. Though on private property, one can see enough
from gates/fences to really appreciate the old road. Of course, zoom
lenses help immensely! These pics were taken in May...note the
flowers such as Indian Paint Pots and various daisies and sunflowers!
Continuing west on U.S. 180, venture onward into Stephens County. I
discovered no F.A.P. (Federal Aid Project)
markers at the county line. As you approach Caddo, be sure to take
the old road, State Loop 252 past 'downtown' Caddo. You can't miss
the turnoff, just be on the lookout for the Caddo Mercantile
building! Since '49, the friendly folks here have been serving the
traveling masses whatever they need. They also have some great
vintage photos inside of Caddo's hey-day.
Can you believe it? In the early years of the century, the Ranger
oil boom swelled the city to well over 1000 residents. The town once
even boasted a hotel, but by the time this old bridge was built in
1934, Caddo was already in decline. I saw no evidence of the old
hotel remaining. On an interesting structural side note, check out
the glass marbles placed in the bridge concrete. I'm assuming these
must have acted as early reflectors. I don't recall seeing anything
like this before.
Once back on U.S. 180, continue westward through
the wooded valleys and grassy meadows towards Breckenridge. Known as
the 'Mural capitol of Texas', the reason for this title is apparent.
Today,
Breckenridge is still hanging on, and the city appears to be trying to rebuild based
upon
its historical prestige. Too bad former city councils couldn't have
saved many of the old structures. Most of the
street
scenes depicted in the murals are virtually unrecognizable today as most of the
larger historic buildings are gone or radically changed. In fact,
though thankfully still here, even the tall former Burch Hotel, the
'skyscraper of Breckenridge', has had some 60's era facade applied to
it. Why would they
do such a thing? Another wounded but not yet down old-timer is the National Theatre. Depicted in this mural, the
National Theatre remains today. Though closed (no roof!), efforts
are under way to try to save it. Let's hope they succeed.
Other notables include later auto era remnants such as this old Phillips 66 on the eastern edge of downtown
as shown here.
On to Albany! Seemingly forgotten by
history, Albany is a real treat. From the fantastic old courthouse
(pictured) to its old row
buildings on
the
downtown square, Albany has managed to retain much of its heritage from the turn of the
century. As a bonus, many reminders of
the early auto era also remain such as this early station and this small
ice plant. Also be sure to check out the 1940 N. Hubbard Creek
bridge as you head south out of town. Plan on spending at
least a couple of hours wandering around and admiring the city and support
the establishments.
Between Albany and the junction of TX 351,
there are a couple of intriguing cut off early road segments. Check out Newell
Ranch Rd. just west of Albany (norht side of the road), and as U.S. 180 approaches the large rock
cuts just east of the TX 351 junction, watch for Private Rd. 2310 veering
off to the right (also to the north). The old road snaked its way up the hill and you
can see it climbing the hill to your right as you climb the much easier
and straighter (thank you new technology!) modern grade. Take TX 361
SW for a relaxing drive in rolling green country on your way to
Abilene.
You don't have to wait long for evidence
of the old road on this stretch either. Though the country seems
wide open, apparently the
old road wasn't straight enough for the next generation of road
builders. About three miles south of the junction, look for the huge
transmission towers crossing the road in front of you. Marching
across the landscape like giants, they make a perfect reference point for
our 1st piece of bypassed roadbed. Look to the left (east), and
observe the old road bed veering off (see pic at right), only to rejoin the road
two miles later. Further south, be sure to note another old bridge
spanning
Spring Creek on your right side (west). Also in this stretch is the
Guiess? Ranch on the
west
side of the road. You can't miss it, look for the old Texaco sign
out front. But before leaving, be sure to check out their patriotic
fences on the south side of their buildings. Wish more people showed
pride like this. And lastly, as we approach Abilene, note that every
county line through here has an old F.A.P. marker-a sure sign that this is indeed the
old road. This particular marker is hidden in the weeds on the east side of the
road at the Jones-Shackleford county line.
Our drive down Historic Alternate 80 is coming
to an end...Abilene approaches. Originally, Alternate 80 entered
town on Ambler, turned south on Pine, west on 5th, then south on Cedar
past the Wooten Hotel. Under the RR overpass and rejoined the main
trunk of
Highway 80. Sometime later, the alternate routing was changed to
turn south on Treadaway to meet with 1st street (U.S. 80) on the south
side of the tracks. Though not much remains on the old Pine routing
today, strangely enough, I did come across a row of vintage trucks just
sitting in someone's side yard. Whether they were for sale or just
set up
to watch a
parade, I thoroughly enjoyed the juxtaposition they made with the modern
cars parked in the street just out of the camera's field of
view. Over on Treadaway, newer Alternate 80, there were a few
'hangers-oners' to remind you of the 'good ol' days'. For example, Larry's
Better Burgers looks like something right out of the movie American Graffiti
while just a block away, the now vacant Torch Drive-In is a classic
combination of 50's-60's era drive-in architecture. Note the sharp
arrow pointing to the joint while the curving roof line was designed to
impart that space age, modern look so common back then.
Well, from here, we rejoin the main trunk of
80 and continue our journey. I hope you have enjoyed traveling this
historic Alternate 80 alignment with me. Be sure to check the rest
of my web, and of course, if you know any history or have a short snippet
to share, drop me a line and I'd love to post it here. Until we meet
again, adios amigos!!