Anyone that is familiar with the history of 66 knows of the often intimate relationship that existed between early 66 and it's precursor in Missouri and the Southwest: the National Old Trails Road.  But do you realize that in the earliest years of this century while still in it's proposal stage, that the Old Trails Road almost became part of the Ocean-to-Ocean highway network (eventually to become the route followed by Highway 80) from El Paso westward?  Thanks to intense lobbying efforts by individuals in northern Arizona who had partnered with early road associations in Los Angeles and Needles, they were able to convince Congress to make the National Old Trails Road follow their route (called the Grand Canyon Route) into Southern California.  Indeed, these far-sighted early roadies had ensured that long stretches of this earliest of roads were already graded and complete in 1912-just in time for the Congressional hearings which would determine where the Old Trails road would go.  Proponents of routing the trail southward out of Albuquerque and into El Paso and then westward had no real road through the formidable sand dunes near Yuma.  They lost the battle and the rest, as they say, is history. 

     Though now approaching 80 to a hundred years old in places, there are still a few reminders of the National Old Trails Road in Arizona.  In eastern Arizona, there is a stretch of the Old Trails Road that runs south out of Allentown, crosses the railroad tracks and then heads west towards Sanders on County Road 7240.  On this run, you will  find two very old, very interesting bridges left over the the Old Trails days that became part of 66 in 1926.  The 1st is just south of Allentown, just across the tracks.  Built circa 1923, this bridge became part of original 66 until the Querino Canyon bridge was built in 1930.  After a rough (washboard) 12-13 miles, the Old Trails route swung back north towards Sanders and crossed another circa 1923 bridge (the yellow-painted bridge) before again heading west towards Chambers.  If you do not want to endure the uncertain conditions of County Road 7240, both bridges are easily accessible from the Allentown and Sanders I-40 exits respectively. 

     Heading westward, the cliffs and hills of western New Mexico and eastern Arizona give way to broad vistas and vast horizons.  In the pre-radio days, there must have been virtually no sound except the incessant whining of the wind and the engine to keep one company.  Trading Posts, I imagine, were welcome respites from the monotony and gave the driver a chance to check the oil, get more water for the cooling bags and radiator and gain assurance that their vehicle would indeed make it to the next town.

     One such lonely outpost was the Painted Desert Trading Post just east of the Petrified Forest.  This abandoned shell of a building is one of my favorite spots (if not THE favorite) on the whole route.  Whenever I pass through this area, I must get off the interstate (exit 340-Pinta Road) and check on my old friend.  I stop, relish the solitude of the area, and imagine myself crossing the Dead River bridge and continuing on the curving road into the Painted Desert proper (see pic).  It is difficult to pull myself away-back to the stresses and hectic pace of our modern lives, and I feel a sense of parting as I don't know if I will see my friend standing again the next time I come through.

     Speaking of the Painted Desert, I tried to meet our friends Guy Randall and Ken when they came through the area in March of '03 with the Hampton Inns RV on their cross-country 66 promotional trek.  I brought my old 10-speed bike and asked (and received) permission to bike down old 66 while I waited for them to arrive.  That day had incredibly strong wind gust coming from the west, so it was easy going down the old road towards the fence, but it just about killed me trying to get back to my car by Tiponi Point.  However, my pain is your gain!  This area of the park has been off limits to vehicles for some time, so here is a shot about 1/2 way to the park boundary looking east towards the aforementioned Painted Desert Trading Post.  The trading post can just be seen...look for the bright white dot almost dead center in the middle of the picture (between the two barely visible brown hills).  Also note the remains of a solid white centerline that indicates that this stretch of road hails from the 1930's era (a culvert in here is dated 1934 and also verifies the date).  P.S., I did have permission from a ranger to make the bike trip!

     Laboriously coming back up the hill, I had plenty of time to contemplate how close the old road came to the edge of the Painted Desert 'badlands'.  I was just wondering if many vehicles went over the edge when a quick check of a nearby drop-off answered my question for me!  There are still remains of at least two vehicles just over the edge.  I hope these folks made it out OK.  Back in the car, I rested for 10 minutes, drank a gallon of water and continued around the park road.  As the park road heads back down south towards I-40, once again we will meet our friendly old route-but this meeting is only evidenced by a lonely line of telephone poles marching in from the east and continuing on off towards the southwest.  The Park Service has removed the concrete quite some time ago.  To top of my disappointment at not finding any remaining roadbed, I never did meet up with Guy and Ken either.

     Before setting out on my Petrified Forest/Painted Desert trek, I had come up from Tucson and spent the night at the Wigwams in Holbrook of course!  Mr. Lewis is always friendly with a tale to tell, and I spent an uneventful evening snapping a couple of great neon photos for your enjoyment and reading about the area.  I spent a little more time near the historic railroad depot area (the depot circa early 1880's) and the infamous Bucket of Blood saloon and street.  What a neat, historic area  and I will post more pics of this area in the future.  Back on the current route, the amiable beasties of the Indian Rock Shop still greet hollering children today as they have for many years.  BTW, I can vouch for the great 'juevos rancheros' at Joe & Aggies for breakfast!

     It's a fact that I don't gamble.  I feel I work too hard earning my money to throw it away on a pair of dice or hoping for that straight flush.  They don't call slot machines one-arm bandits for nothing!  However, that doesn't mean that Leslie & I don't love going up to Vegas.  We go up at least once a year for the lights, the fantastic shows, and just people watching.  We always have a great time.  I usually use this opportunity to take a little longer route and sneak in a quick drive by of Ash Fork and Seligman on the way.  Though mere shells of their former selves (especially Ash Fork), it's still fun to cruise on through and see if you spot something new that you missed last time.  I got lucky and passed through one night when the old Copper State Motor Court had its neon sign on.  I had never seen it on before, so I thought I had better share this with you, the dedicated roadie.  BTW, Rittenhouse mentions the Copper State in his 1946 notations.  Another wonderful sign from days past is the Supai Motel in Seligman.  According to the current owners, the sign hails from the 30's, though they're not quite sure of which year.

     Coming up from Tucson, and luckily for me, before continuing on up Highway 93 for the final run up into Vegas the interstate and/or Highway 93 dumps you right smack-dab into the heart of Route 66 in Kingman.  The seat of Mojave County, home to a Santa Fe railway depot and on the route of the National Old Trails Road, Kingman has been a major stop since the very birth of Route 66.  That, coupled with the fact the Kingman was also the site of a huge Army Air Force training base in WW2, ensures that there exist many relics of vintage 66 to this day.  The Hillcrest Motel east of downtown appears to fall into this category.  Downtown Kingman, with the Beale and Brunswick Hotels across the street from the Santa Fe depot, looks virtually identical as it did 50 years ago (see my 'Now & Then' section for an example).  Sadly, I did notice that the large advertising sign of the Flying K Realty business and its stylized 50's-60's era jet has been removed from the west end of the building.  I thought that this particular sign was a great reminder of those early years when the fledgling atomic, jet and space ages where still a promise of a better tomorrow...

     Following the National Old Trails Road, original 66 headed south out of Kingman and then headed westward over the mountains to Goldroad and Oatman.  Well marked by both Historic Route 66 and Arizona Scenic Backcountry Byways signs, it is easy to follow the old road today.  Once out of the barren desert floor, this old road is a great stretch of asphalt-that is if you're not afraid of twisty, blind mountain turns and grades!  There are several historic sites worth seeing in this stretch: the rebuilt replica of the Cool Springs Camp, Ed's Camp (mentioned by Rittenhouse-also look for the white stones spelling out "Ed's Camp" across the road up on the hillside), and Shaffer's Fishbowl.  I missed the famous fishbowl the 1st time I went through and had to backtrack.  I saw the steps in my rear-view mirror, and did a rather foolish u-turn right there in the road while I could still see where I needed to go!  For those of you who want to know exactly where these almost invisible steps and fishbowl are at, they are literally just a 100 feet before a sharp curve to the left right at mile marker 30 (heading westbound).  Alas, I saw no evidence of fish in the 'fishbowl' and wonder if that's just not a roadie myth.  Here's a photo showing the fishbowl and a great example of the twisty, heavily repaired road indicative of the area.

     One last area of Arizona 66 that I never hear anyone mention is that section south of Kingman known as the Yucca cut-off.  Opened in 1952, the cut-off almost overnight doomed any remaining businesses along the Oatman highway.  On a whim, I explored this road one day just to see what was out there.  Nada, nothing, not worth driving through.  In my humble opinion, if you want to experience 66, stay with the Oatman route.  About the only exception to this monotonous sameness are the two Yucca exits.  Home to that world famous golf ball looking building (now a mini-golf business of course!), Yucca was also obviously home to a Whiting Brothers station and motel complex.  However, nothing remains today but the signs.  No swimming or sleeping tonight... 

     So as we ride on into the west, let us bid a grand farewell to the Grand Canyon State-home to some of the finest Route 66 experiences anywhere.  But ahead, lies that promise of a better life, a promise of bounty and a promise of dreams fulfilled: California.

--OR--
choose your favorite 66 state to jump to!