Part of the extensive and relatively young San
Francisco volcanic field (of which Mt. Humphries is the patriarch),
Sunset Crater is virtually (geologically speaking) a newborn. Eruptions
dated to around A.D. 1064-65 and built the classic cinder cone which is still so
evident today. As a matter of fact, check out my pic to the right...as the
eruption died down, the compilation and consistency of the hurled magma
fragments changed subtly...leaving us the more reddish cinders near the top of
the cone which helped give the cone it's character and name.
This is a wonderful area to explore, and
the Park Service has done a great job of providing trails that take you right
to
the base of the mountain. You'll pass incredible lava tubes, flows of
blocky aa (ah-ah) lava (see pic to the left), and the skeletons of Juniper and
Ponderosa pines that were unfortunate enough to lie in the path of the
encroaching, burning tide. Though appearing as if the eruption and
subsequent lave flows were just last year, a closer examination will reveal the
lichens and young seedlings even now trying to break down the hard rock into
soil. You are literally watching the evolution and transformation of the
earth around you.

Be sure to leave some energy and time for
Wupatki! Take the park loop road north, and enjoy the spectacular vistas
as you drop down to the Painted Desert. This country has been a crossroads
of different Indian cultures for thousands of years. There exist more than
2700 mapped sites within this area, verifying the fact that at least at one
time in the past, this area was a busy center of trade and extended family
units. Indeed, archeologists have
found artifacts and influence from the Sinagua, Kayenta; Anasazi, and Cohonina
peoples. However, much evidence seems to point to the Sunset Crater eruption as the
final de-stabilizing influence that helped to drive out the last remnants
of an already slowly declining area population.
Re-settled in the past 400-500 years as the
Hopis and Navajo moved into the area, these tribes still hold many of
these ruins and surrounding mountains as sacred. Thankfully, Wupatki has
been a National Monument since 1924, under the protection and watchful eye of
the Park Service. Major sites
include Wukoki ('Big House' and my personal favorite ruin-it's just so desolate
and beautiful out here. See pics at right), The Citadel, Lomaki
('Beautiful House'), and Wupatki ('Tall House'-see lower left pic). Note
the sandstone slabs lying on the ground all around the Wupatki ruin. No
shortage of building materials here!

One can climb in and around many of these
ruins, but please remain careful and respectful
so that others may enjoy the area behind you. Continue on the loop road
west, and reconnect with Highway 89 back to our favorite
Route in Arizona.